Culinary revolution's so-so at Mao bistro! - Continued

Once again, the sushi was outstanding. We appreciated the superior yellowtail sashimi ($14), although the serrano chile-spiked dressing overwhelmed it. I'd happily consume the comfy tempura lobster roll ($10) with avocado and mango any time, and the sumptuous ocean salad ($4) with sea vegetables in toasted sesame dressing was a joy. We hungrily attacked a huge piece of silky braised foie gras ($14) matched with buttery apple confit.

The entrees were again a mixed lot. The grilled prime New York strip steak ($30) with black peppercorn sauce was a gorgeous piece of meat. We gave high marks to the tofu and grilled eggplant tower ($16), a taste-packed meatless entree. Our enthusiasm wilted when we went to pass the dish and discovered that the plate was dirty on the bottom.

One of our guests ordered butter-roasted lobster ($38). The lobster meat was lovely, but the accompanying green tea risotto didn't taste like tea or anything else. Was it $38 worth of food? No.

The service at Mao was sometimes professional and sometimes scattered. Good waiters ask before they grab plates off the table. They bring spoons with the coffee. We asked for fresh wasabi that never came. Maybe the waiter couldn't hear us. It was so loud I had to literally scream to be heard across the table.

Finally, the eatery name is a problem. The menu praises Mao and neglects the fact that he wrought devastation on China with the Cultural Revolution. Now, there's nothing wrong with a really cool-looking place where young urbanites can enjoy themselves, drink $15 martinis and nibble an appetizer. As a chichi bar, Mao gets an "A."

As a restaurant, Mao's style-over-substance approach gets what it deserves.
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